Into Africa
Posted by Max on Monday, January 3, 2011
'"If I could work my will," said Scrooge indignantly, "every
idiot who goes about with 'Merry Christmas' on his lips, should be
boiled with his own pudding"'
Charles Dickens, 'A Christmas Carol'
Bah humbug! I hate spending the festive season in countries that
don't know what a mince pie is, and this year was no exception.
My Christmas Eve was like some kind of depraved scene from
Trainspotting, on Christmas Day we were left homeless after being turfed
out of a monastery in the dark, and New Year's was the most unpleasant
day I've ever spent on a bicycle. And today we're off to a country where
Sharia Law rules out most people's idea of festive fun (e.g. drinking =
40 lashes, adultery = death by stoning).
Even so, with boisterous fun-loving locals, plentiful sources of
yummy street food, and idyllic postcard scenery, Egypt has been awesome.
On paper, the long road from Cairo down the Nile looks like a congested
nightmare. With the third highest population in Africa - almost all
crammed into the Nile Valley - and the most frighteningly dangerous
drivers so far, it was a pleasant surprise as we cleared Cairo, to find
ourselves in a landscape of lush rural greenery. After so many weeks in
the dusty deserts and hills of the middle-east, it all seemed bizarrly
out of place, but wonderful to back amongst so much life. It was as if
someone had peeled off a 900km strip of South East Asia - complete with
palm trees, water buffalo, rickshaws, and rice paddys - and stuck it
down in the middle of the Sahara. The tropical setting, in the
pancake-flat terrain of the Nile floodplain, with the low humidity and
non-existant rainfall of the desert, was in many ways a cycling
paradise. The only problem was, we weren't really supposed to be cycling
there. After a handful of terrorist attacks over the last two decades,
and some well documented support for fundamentalism, the Egyptian
authorities actively discourage independent travel in the Nile Valley.
They especially disapprove of silly westerners cycling down it. However
the British Foreign Office seem to think it's fine, so that was good
enough for us.
On our first night, we turned off the main road to look for
somewhere to camp. Every square inch of the ultra-fertile soils of
the floodplain are intensively farmed on so it isn't easy. The few
scraps of available land are normally right by the road, and so noisy,
indiscreet, and therefore unsuitable. We stop at a farm and after much
toing and froing we're directed up the road toward the police station,
to ask for help. We'd spied a big pyramid out of the valley in the
desert and were contemplating heading out to camp there but we got
stopped at a police checkpoint on the way. I explained what we were up
to and they weren't happy with the plan. 'Camping is forbidden',
we were told, however there were no hotels nearby so they weren't sure
what to do with us. The solution they came up with was to have us camp
on the pavement, right outside the police station with an armed guard
watching over us all night. This worked well. We cooked up some pasta
for dinner and went to bed, safe in the knowledge that nosey locals
and curious youngsters would be shooed away if necessary.
The next morning we thanked them, had some felafel for breakfast,
and trundled off back to the main road. Before long, a car filled
with police started tailing us. I'd heard of paranoid poilce escorting
cyclists around but surely they wouldn't have the time and patience to
do this for long - we were only going about 22km/h. It turned out they
did have the patience, and we were faithfully escorted from that point
onward, for almost the entire six day, 700km journey to Luxor. At one
point, there was one police car cruising along in front of us, and a
small truck of soldiers behind. Nine people all in all, armed with
AK-47's, and 'protecting us from what?', I thought. The old men
wobbling past on donkeys? The hoards of friendly children running out to
say hello? It seemed utterly ridiculous. How in the world can Egypt
spare the resources to babysit cyclists for days at a time when they
seem to find it hard enough to manage basic services like rubbish
collection? Goodness knows, but if I was an Egyptian taxpayer, I would
be writing a very strongly worded letter to my MP. Fortunately I'm
not, so I found the whole absurd thing rather entertaining.
We would have a few different escort teams each day, always with
one guy in charge, who would invariably be a bit of a maverick, with
cool sun-glasses or a non-uniform jacket to denote his authority. After
half-heartedly suggesting we just load the bikes on to their vehicle,
they would then preside over our day's cycle as if we were some kind of
presidential envoy. Taking it very seriously, they were always courteous
but ran a very tight ship. There would be no eating at non
police-approved tea shacks or falafel carts, no going down
off-the-beaten-track roads, no impromtu photo stops, and absolutely no camping.
When we got to busy intersections, on went the sirens and we would
speed through apologetically as the traffic ground to a halt. Should any
local have the gall to come alongside us on a motorbike, donkey, etc to
say hello, they would also get a swift blast of the sirens until they
'left the foreigners alone'. When Emily needed the toilet she had to be
accompanied. When I paused to buy clementines, it became a ridiculous
fiasco: I parked my bike and began to scuttle across the road
between cars toward the fruit stall. The policeman was out of the car
too though and nonchalantly walked into the middle of the road with one
hand imperiously raised against the traffic, calmly informing me that he
was a policeman so we don't need to run. 'What a cock', I
thought to myself. I then started asking for some fruit, but was shushed
by the policeman who proceeded to broker the deal for me. He drove a
hard bargain - demanding 20p for a bag of clementines - and the fruit
sellers erupted in protest. I handed over 40p feeling a bit embarrased.
At lunch I was berated for making Emily carry 'so much' of our baggage.
As amusing as it all was, as evening approached, it would be time
for the stressful daily search for a hotel. With up to 50km between
towns big enough to have hotels, we often had to cycle into the night
(very dangerous) in the name of safety, in order to find somewhere the
police would be happy to let us stay. One day we set a new distance
record (153km) doing this, and another day the police just gave up
and dumped us on the doorstep of a monastery, who kindly gave us bread
and a room for free. On Christmas Eve, we were left at a particularly
filthy hotel, in an awful little town called Nag Hammadi. This was
particularly depressing. Determined to have at least a token
celebration, I sat in the mosquito-infested corridor drinking a
warm beer wrapped in newspaper, with a roll-up out of my stale tobacco
from Istanbul. Hardly mulled wine and mice pies but it was the best Nag
Hammadi had to offer. On
Christmas Day, we were heading for a monastery where perhaps we would
find evidence of Christmas but when we got there in the evening we found
out that in the
Egyptian Coptic Christian calendar, Christmas isn't until the 7th of
January. Seeing our obvious disappointment, a monk was quickly
dispatched to rustle up some presents.
One small carton of orange juice each. He then broke the news that we
couldn't stay so it was back out for some more nighttime cycling.
New Years was even worse. We'd been abandoned by the police after a
luxurious Christmas break in Luxor, it was a Friday so the kids weren't
at school. With nothing better to do, most of them decided to terrorise
us. Over the 110km between Luxor and a town called Idfu we were chased,
spat on, hit with sugar canes, repeatedly told to 'fuck off', had
rocks (and more sugar canes) thrown at us, and I had the spare tyre
nicked from the back of my bike (which I fortunately managed to get
back). I imagined the various scenarios that could unfold if I acted on
impulse and gave one of them a good clout on the way past. Most ended
badly for me, so I stoically ignored them, with only an occasional
odd torrent of abuse when especially provoked. I wondered how one
stretch of road could have such violent hostility when most
Egyptians we'd met had been exuberant, but almost always friendly and
polite. I'm convinced it wasn't just the lack of police, and guess
it had something to do with the closeness to popular tourist towns, and
that the exposure to rich westerners had bred resentment. In any case,
I've tried not to let it colour my opinions Egypt. When you travel like
this, searching out authentic character of a country behind their
homogenised tourist industry, you have to take the bad with the good.
Today, we head for Sudan, and I'm almost as excited as I was
leaving London. The land border is closed to tourists so we'll take the
ferry across Lake Nasser, and finally leave the arab world behind. For
the first time on this trip, we really have no idea what to expect.
Sudan is the one country that's guaranteed to raise an eyebrow when I
reel off the list of places we're going through. And it's true that when
planning a cycling holiday, one should normally steer clear of places
with climatic extremes, civil unrest, and a leader who's wanted by
the ICC for war crimes. However, the north-east of the country is famous
for its friendly hospitality and has some of the lowest rates
of violent crime - not only in Africa - but in the world, so hopefully
all will be well.
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